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STRUKTORR ON SITE

Practice and advice from the site — short and clear

01Tip

PREPARE THE JOINT PROPERLY

Even a quality sealant will not compensate for dust, grease, moisture or a badly shaped joint.

7 steps4 min
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02Tip

SILICONE, PU OR ACRYLIC?

At first glance silicone, polyurethane sealant and acrylic look alike — gun-applied, filling a joint. They are not interchangeable.

5 steps5 min
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03Tip

NOZZLE, PRESSURE AND TOOLING

The nozzle is not there to leave sealant on the surface. It has to help the sealant fill the joint and bond well to both of its faces.

9 steps5 min
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04Tip

SEALING IN THE BATHROOM

Bathrooms and kitchens are among the hardest places for any joint. Here the sealant is permanently exposed to water, humidity, temperature change, soaps, cleaners and soiling.

8 steps5 min
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05Tip

WORKING CORRECTLY WITH PU MOUNTING FOAM

PU mounting foam is one of the most used products on site — installing doors and windows, filling cavities, penetrations around pipes and cables, thermal and acoustic insulation of joints.

13 steps5 min
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06Tip

HAND-HELD OR GUN-GRADE PU FOAM?

Both hand-held and gun-grade PU foam can fill, insulate and seal construction voids. The main difference is in how it is applied and how well the quantity is controlled.

4 steps4 min
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07Tip

HOW TO SEAL A MOVEMENT JOINT

Buildings move. Concrete shrinks, metal expands with temperature change, façade elements move with sun, wind and thermal cycles.

15 steps6 min
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08Tip

WORKING WITH SEALANTS IN COLD AND DAMP

Working through the cold, damp months is harder not just because the material is cold. The real problem is the combination of a cold substrate, high humidity, condensation and slower curing.

13 steps5 min
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09Tip

HOW TO SIZE A JOINT

The right width-to-depth ratio decides whether the joint survives the structure moving — and its dimensions are exactly what determines how many packages of sealant you actually need.

6 steps5 min
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